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Handling, Care and Storage Of Photographic Equipment By
Frederick Foo
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Handling of Camera There are hundred of different types of camera, though many are similar, none of them work exactly the same way even the same brand. In the old days and many non-AF camera of certain brand do have similar operations, but those days are gone. For starters, handle the camera often so that the fingers become familiar with all the knobs, buttons, lever, switches, rollers and their specific functions. There are many features in the modern camera. It is difficult to remember all or even half of them. Just find out, learn and perfect how to control the Shutter Speed, Aperture and film speed at different metering readings and lighting condition. As for the other "Cool" feature, learn when the need arises for that day shooting only. PRACTICE Makes PERFECT. Do practise a lot until one can operate their camera without actually looking at the knobs or buttons. The only way to really know one's camera is to shoot plenty of film. It does not matter if mistakes are made, as long as mistake is learnt with every faulty shot. ( Usually that is how professional can
capture a good photos by taking a lot of rolls even on one subject only.
They play around the camera so much that the camera become part of them.
Their professionalism are learnt from their mistake. )
Know Your Equipment To know the camera well, EXAMINE and STUDY the camera thoroughtly. ALWAYS READ the MANUAL very carefully to find out exactly what each control is for, how to work them properly and efficiently. If the instruction manual is unclear and seems confusing, do ask people; the shop you bought from, the manufacturer, your photographic teacher, if you have one, or me ( Please show me the page(s) in the instruction manual and I will try to explain to you ) . In this way, camera and skill can be stretched to the limit to get a good shoot at all occasions. This does not mean if one master all the function of the camera, one will be great in photography. Remember, Camera is only a tools, photography skill is required to make the picture greater. If the camera has a built-in metering system,
learn it, know it, use it effectively and quickly. Know what the reading
means and know what to do with it. DO NOT be too dependent on the display
in the camera.
Adopt The Correct Posture The keys to successful hand-held photography are comfort, ease and sureness of camera handling. Hold the right handle of the camera with the right hand last 3 fingers. Support the back of the camera with the right thumb. Leave the index finger lose to press/squeeze the shutter release button or adjusting any knobs. Rest the base of the camera to the plumb of the left hand. Leaving the left thumb and the left index finger free to turn the focusing ring and aperture ring in manual focus camera. The left hand push the camera body upward such that the top of the camera rest nicely and firmly to the forehead. Embrace the right arm close to the left side of the body and embrace / tard the left arm in front of the body or the left side of the body to give good support. The left elbow can also rest firmly just above the stomach to give better support and stablity. In addition to normal standing positions to take picture; try sittings, squatting and lying flat on the stomach or the back positions which offer good stability, especially for upward tilts or low angle shots. When pointing the camera level with the ground or slightly downward, undertake the kneeling position and brace the left elbow on the left knee. In a sitting position, place the legs apart and press the elbows against the inner sides of the knees. Leaning forward slightly adds to stability. Leaning onto something solid like a wall or tree does the same. To avoid movement during exposure, hand-held shutter speeds should be 1 / 125 sec. or faster. Many experienced photographer standardize on 1 / 125 sec., to minimize the possibility of a blurred image. With practice, acceptably sharp pictures can be obtained at shutter speeds as low as 1 / 30 sec., but as shutter speeds decrease, the chances of shake will increase. So experienced photographer try to find some form of additional support when they use speeds slower than 1 / 125 sec. Leaning against a wall, back of a chair, table tops, fence posts, tree, hood of a parked car with the motor off, provide good solid support. The best support for cameras at all
times is a solid metal tripod. Not just any 3 legged plastic but a solid
tripod that can hold the camera steady especially in vertical position.
By right, use a good strong tripod for photography at all times as far
as possible to non-blur picture.
Camera and Lens Care There are a few simple rules for maintaining camera and lenses to give optimum performances in years to come. Proper care and storage will make a camera and lenses operate and looks like new even the camera is used for many many years. 2/ Avoid touching the shutter curtain, when loading, unloading film and changing lens. Keep fingers print off the reflex mirror surface as well. 3/ Always CLEAN regularly; both camera and lenses. The camera should be cleaned before taking them out for shooting, during use if notice any dust accumulating on or inside it and after using before storing them away. 4/ First, Blow the dust or particles off with a strong blower or air syringe inside and outside of the camera and lenses. Dust and clean inside and outside of the camera with a soft camel's hair brush. Never blow directly at the shutter or dust the shutter with a brush. It will damage, or worse, misalign the thin precision shutter blade. Blow at an angle if there is dust on the shutter. Never use water, liquid detergents or any solvents to clean away anything on any surface. Use a clean damp cloth to rub gently to see if it comes off first. If not, leave it or send for repair. 5/ Sand is the worse threat. When changing film or lenses on the beach, seek a sheltered spot, away from the activity and out of the wind. If any sand does get on the camera, dust it off immediately. Should any sand get into any camera mechanism, have it cleaned by an authorized repair centre. If sea water or salt spray lands on the camera, wipe it off immediately with a soft towel to prevent corrosion. Rain water is less damaging; so there is no need to panic every time the camera gets a few drops of rain on it. Just pat or tap it dry with a soft towel. Once at home, use a damp cloth to run through all the parts of the camera or lenses. Quickly dry it with a clean dry cloth and leave it out to dry before keeping in the dry pak. 6/ If the camera is to be stored for more than a few weeks, remove the batteries. No matter what type of batteries may leak and corrode over a long period of time. Do not store the camera with the shutter cocked; because this will put unnecessary tension on the shutter springs. 7/ Always store all photographic equipment in a dry pack case or any cool, dry, air-tight box ( camera body, especially lenses, filters, winder, motor drive, flash and etc.... except for tripod). 8/ If the camera or any equipment has been in storage for more than 3 months, it should be taken out from the dry case, exercise and operate all its movable parts to ensure it is working smoothly. STORAGE In Singapore humid weather or wet air, fungus grow very easily. It is more easily grown on the lenses with multi-layer coating. The simple rule is to store the camera and lenses in a cool, dry and air tight container. The cheapest is a Dry Pak Case, air tight container or even "Tupperware" with Selica gel. An expensive option with electricity is a Dry Cabinet, a good one especially. Not all people need a Dry Cabinet. It is crazy to have a S$ 600 /- dry cabinet if the total photography equipment is less than S$ 2000/-. The advise is that the investment for storage should be one-tenth of total photographic equipment investment. Frankly, I have over several tens of thousand worth of equipment. My investment for storage is less than S$ 800/-. I did not buy cheap Dry Cabinet that gives more problem like noisy motor, bad circulation and poor regulation of air, heater that burn the equipment, unable to dry the air fast enough, ( Dry the air to the 50% to 60% quick enough. Best is less than 4 hours ) and no or no good Humidity Meter. I use only Dry Pak Case and I observe the following method closely. b) Make sure the dry pack case contain silica fill about 2 to 3 cm from the bottom no matter what is the size of the case or box. This amount can last 3 months or a year; if the container is seldom opened. c) Make sure the silica is blue always. Once it is pink and transparent, change all the silica in the box. Replace it with new or recycle blue Silica. d) The Silica gel can be recycled. Dry it up over a small flame in a pan until it turns dark blue; not black. Dry a little at a time and make sure the pan is not use for food. Then, quickly transfer it into a glass container that can be sealed up by tightly with a metal or glass cover and would not explode because of the heat. The silica will still remains blue even when it cool down because the air inside the glass container is got rid off by the hot silica. Finally put the silica back in the dry pack case, when the silica has cool down totally. e) Always use a large clean cloth, like a face towel, to clean every expose and moving part on the camera and lenses. Do not touch the surface of the camera with your hands or finger anymore at this point. Using the cloth to hold the camera or lenses and put them into the box. Never let your hands or finger touch them anymore until the next time using it. f) It is best to separate the equipments with foam or bubble plastic bag when storing each piece of camera, lenses and etc.. in the box. This is to prevent scratches caused by equipment rubbing against each other when transporting the boxes. The foam or bubbles plastic bag acts as cushion and protection for the equipment from shock, dust, wetness and damage.
Regardless with storage devices, equipment will be damaged and will not last long if did not follow the following guide lines closely. When not in use for a long period of time, camera equipment needs to be looked after in a slightly different way from that of using it day to day. If the photographic equipment are likely to be leaving it packed away for a couple of weeks or more, please followed these procedures closely :- b) Remove all batteries. There is no need to discard them altogether, just store them separately. They all leak a little and, over a period of a few months, the gas, salt or liquid that they emit can corrode the contacts and compartment inside the cameras. c) Clean the equipment thoroughly before storing it. Deposits that consider harmless, such as those from a fingerprint, can give enough trouble. ( See… any deposits will contain moisture and salts. When the moisture dry by the selica, salt will remind. It is hard and can be abrasive. If cleaning is done now, the hardest can scratch the surface makes the equipment does not look new anymore. ) Pay particular attention to remove any marks from the lens surfaces, instant-return mirror, viewing screen and prism. d) Release the tension of springs. The shutter, mirror mechanism and automatic diaphragm system all operate under tension in most cameras. Before packing, fire the shutter and do not wind on, unlock the mirror lock-up and close down the lens diaphragm to smallest aperture. e) Protect the equipment from dust by wrapping and sealing it, ideally in plastic. Include a sachet of silica gel desiccant to absorb residual moisture. However, as the lubricants and some of the materials (such as the leatherette covering) emit fumes, it is a good idea to unwrap and air the equipment every month. For the same reason, store lenses separately from the camera body, the lubricants for the focusing mechanism to give off more fumes than any other part of the equipment. "Photography Happenings!!" is grateful to Mr Frederick Foo for his generous guest contribution, sharing his invaluable knowledge with the rest of the photographic community. No part of this article may be reproduced in any format without prior permission from the author.
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