Second-hand equipment offers great value-for-money. They are often much cheaper than buying brand-new equipment, offering much savings if you know what to look for. This short article will highlight some of the important things to look out for when you buy second-hand equipment. It is not meant to be a comprehensive guide, so if you are still unsure, get a technically-proficient friend to go along with you when you buy second-hand stuff. Most reputable shops would ensure that the equipment is working well before they attempt to sell it, and they should offer a one-month money back guarantee if the equipment is not working as it should.
 

General tips

1) Never buy worn or well-used equipment
They have probably been used by professionals or heavy-users. The wear and tear that comes along with it means that the equipment has a high probability of failing or will fail soon.

2) Watch out for signs of damage
If the equipment has obvious signs of damage such as dents on the exterior, avoid buying. Most equipment are fragile items, and signs of being dropped may mean there are some interior damage that has yet to surface.

3) Be wary of very low prices
If you ever spot a piece of second-hand equipment offered at very low prices, make sure you inspect it VERY carefully before you buy it. It may be a sign that something is not right. Although there are some good buys around, it is unlikely that the price is way below market rate. Ask questions and inspect very carefully before purchase. Some damage may be invisible to the eye, eg. electronic circuits.

4) Look around and bargain
It is absolute essential to look around and bargain. Each of them offers some items that the others may not, or offers the same item at a lower price. Higher prices often reflect better condition, though that may not always be true. The discrepancies in pricing may be substantial, so shop around for the best deal. The cheapest may not be the best, so check for condition of the gear as well. Once you decide where to buy it from, try to bargain a bit. Sure, you might seem cheapskate bargaining for $20 reduction, but that amount saved will enable you to buy a couple of rolls of film to test out the new purchase !!
 

5) Buy moderately new equipment to be safe
Moderately new (80% to near mint) equipment offer the best trade-off between price and reliability. Because they are new, it is less probable that they have age-related problems; it is more likely that the original owner bought the wrong stuff. But it could be also some flaws internally. The bottom line is - check before you buy.
 

How to choose a camera body

First of all, check the camera body for any obvious signs of damage, such as dents from being dropped or knocked.

Secondly, check that all the functions are working. Check the shutter speeds are all working at approximately the correct speed. If you don't know how, get a friend who knows.

Check screws and joints to see if they have been taken apart. Screws that have stripped heads and threads are clear signs that someone unauthorized and unskilled had tried to open the camera. Avoid buying.

Check mirror and lens mount. Avoid buying cameras that has heavy wear and brassing (meaning you can see the colour of brass underneath the stainless steel plating) on lens mounts. They've probably been used for a long good while.

Open camera back and check for debris such as sand. If there's sand, do not buy, because sand that gets into the gears are very difficult to remove completely and will one day jam the mechanism or scratch your film. Check shutter curtain to ensure that it is working perfectly with no dents or tear. If metal shutter curtains have any signs of being bent, do not purchase. Bent curtains will one day clash against each other and will be very expensive to repair.

Check LED and LCD panels to ensure they are working perfectly. Check minor parts like self-timer and mirror lock-up to see if they work. If they don't work, and you don't need them anyway, use them to bargain for a lower price !

If it is a autofocus camera, check the autofocus functions. Generally, electronic cameras have more things to go wrong, and are more tricky to diagnose. Make sure you run through all the functions before buying.
 

How to choose a lens

Lenses are much easier to check than camera bodies, although the optical aspects can only be determined by shooting film. To check the optics, hold the lens towards a bright light source to check for dirt and debris. If the shop does not have bright lights, tell them you want to step outside the shop for a look. A bit of dust and dirt will not affect the optical performance much, and you can use it to drive the price down. Avoid lenses that are too dusty or dirty. Hold the lens progressively nearer and further away to check, because at too close a distance, you may miss seeing some of the dirt.

Check for fungus by viewing the lens at a area near a bright light source, not directly at the light source. Fungus are web-like organisms that thrive on the lens coating. Check the corners carefully to spot for any signs of fungus. If there's fungus, you should forget about buying the lens. Fungus permanently damage the lens, and are likely to return.

Check the front and back elements are scratches and smudges. Like dirt and dust, a little scratch and smudge will not affect the image much. But you can use these flaws to bargain the price down. If scratch is long and deep, forget it.

Next, when you're happy with the optics, check the mechanics of the lens. Start with the aperture. The aperture should turn smoothly, while clicking at the various stops. Check the aperture blades while they open and close, to see if they are symmetrical. If they're uneven, do not buy the lens. Then check to see if there's any oil residue on the blades. On the older lenses, some of the oil might have seeped from the aperture mechanism onto the blades. This may affect the smoothness of the aperture working, and thus the final image may suffer from over-exposure.

Check the smaller components like minimum aperture lock (if there is) and the filter thread. If the filter thread is damaged, you may not be able to use filters.

Finally, check the zooming and focusing ring to ensure that they are smooth. If the rings are stiff or feel grainy, there may be problems because some debris may have gotten inside. Sand and bigger pieces of debris will slowly grind away the interior every time you turn the rings. So unless you're willing to pay for the repairs of the lens, avoid lenses with stiff rings.

For autofocus lenses, fit them onto a camera body and check if it autofocuses correctly and smoothly. Also ensure that the readout on the camera corresponds to that on the lens. But remember that variable-aperture zooms will not show the same aperture read-out on the lens and the viewfinder if you zoom out !!
 

How to choose a flash

Because flash is nothing but electronics and a xenon-filled glass tube, I'd not advise buying second-hand flashes. Both components are easily susceptible to damage, and not easily visually diagnosable. You cannot tell from the appearance whether a flash is working properly or not. So try to avoid buying flashes second-hand.

If you really want to, then check the physical appearance for any signs or damage. Check flash tube for any discolouring (brown stains) and the LCD and LED are working properly. Check switches and locks, and ensure that you run a roll of slide films through to check for proper exposure after you bought it.

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